Q: What dilution do you use?
A: For line designs, I usually go with undiluted bleach (3.5% active chlorine). For shaded work, I dilute it about 1:4 or 1:5 and build up in layers. Always test your mix on a hidden spot first (like an armpit). I share more about finding the “right” mix inside the Bleach Painting Club.

Q: What bleach do you use?
A: Brand doesn’t matter — I just use cheap store-brand bleach. What matters is that it has sodium hypochlorite (active chlorine). I mostly use liquid bleach, though a lot of beginners prefer gel. I go into gel vs liquid vs powder and the meaning of active chlorine % in more detail inside the club.

Q: What material shirts do you paint on?
A: 100% cotton is always best, though cotton blends with a high cotton content can work. Denim also reacts nicely but is too rough for fine detail. I explain how different fabrics react with bleach in the club.

Q: How do you neutralize?
A: Rinse in running water, then soak 10–15 min in 1 part hydrogen peroxide + 9–10 parts water (depending on the strenght of the hidrogen peroxide). Rinse again, wash gently with mild detergent in the washing machine, then air-dry. I have a full step-by-step breakdown in the Bleach Painting Club.

Q: Should I neutralize between layers or if I work over several days?
A: Don't let bleach sit on the fabric for too long without neutralising — especially if you're painting with undiluted bleach. The exact number of days depends on the thickness of your fabric, the strength of your bleach (or dilution), and the style you're painting in. Generally, just think of it this way: the longer it stays, the higher the risk of holes.